Standing on the banks of the River Thames, the Palace of Westminster is one of London’s most recognisable attractions.
Once a royal residence, the palace has been the home of British government since the middle of the 11th century, when the two-house parliament was created. Today, it’s the heart of British politics – and is also open to visitors.
There are various tours of the Houses of Parliament including guided tours of the Palace of Westminster, self-guided audio tours, Big Ben tours and dedicated family-friendly tours.
Twice a year, there’s also the option to join the Speaker’s House tour for a rare glimpse behind the portcullis to see where the Speaker of the House of Commons lives and works.
If you are interested in joining the Speaker’s House tour then you should know that it is only available during the Easter and summer parliamentary recesses and tickets go quickly. It’s worth persevering, however, this is a really unique opportunity to get a better understanding of how the UK government works.
Here’s how to book your tour of the state apartments of the Speaker and what exactly to expect.
For more ideas on things to do in London with Kids take a look at this guidebook.
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Who is the Speaker of the House of Commons?
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Before we get started, however, it’s worth explaining just who exactly the Speaker of the House of Commons is.
This role of the speaker is to preside over parliamentary debates. It’s one of the oldest political offices in Britain and is also fairly challenging – anyone who has ever watched a parliamentary debate on television will appreciate that acting as a politically neutral referee in an often cacophonous and unruly Parliament is no mean feat!
Fortunately, however, the role is less challenging and precarious than it once was.
When communicating the wishes of the Commons to the King during medieval times, the Speaker was often – justifiably – in fear of his life: seven speakers were executed between 1394 and 1535 when the Monarch took umbrage with the Speaker and his message.
In 1510, Henry VIII had two former speakers beheaded in a single day!
Fortunately today the Speaker is a highly respected role and their official residence inside the Palace of Westminster reflects their importance.
The residence includes the private apartments as well as a suite of state rooms that are used to conduct official business and host glittering receptions and dinners. It’s these State Apartments that are open to the public (sadly – but understandably – the private home of the Speaker of the house is not included on the tour).
The Speaker’s House Tour
I was booked onto one of the first tours of the day, meeting at 9.15am in Westminster Hall.
Our tour guide for the 75-minute tour was Susan who started the tour by introducing the historic hall, the oldest building in Parliament and virtually the only part of the original Palace of Westminster that survived following the fire of 1834.
The fire, which started following the burning of small wooden tally sticks once used as part of the accounting procedures of the Exchequer, tore through the rooms and wooden walkways.
By 7pm, the royal family in Windsor could see the flames and by the following morning, the only building left was Westminster Hall and a few adjacent areas.
A competition was held to design and build a new building and Charles Barry won. Barry, along with his assistant, Augustus Pugin, were responsible for the design that you see today – including the Speaker’s residence.
Once upon a time, there were 17 residences within the Palace of Westminster but today only the Speaker’s residence remains.
Once the introduction was over, Susan led us across a courtyard and to the front of Speaker’s house, where she explained that we were not allowed to take photos anywhere on the tour, apart from in Westminster Hall and the entrance hallway of Speaker’s House.
So, sadly I’m not able to share any photos from within the incredible rooms – you will just have to go and see them yourself!
Entrance
After entering through the main door, we climbed the grand staircase flanked by two tall lamps each in the shape of a mace, which represents the Speaker’s authority and the privileges of the House.
At the top of the staircase Susan stopped to tell us something of the history and traditions of the role of Speaker.
Forty-eight portraits of speakers line the walls of the state apartments and Susan used these as prompts, pointing out Thomas Hungerford, the first ever Speaker, elected in 1377, and William Lenthall, famous for defying King Charles I in 1642.
That’s one of the best things about touring the state apartments is the storytelling. While it’s fascinating to see the richly decorated rooms, what really brings the tours to life are the stories behind the people who once roamed the corridors.
Over the course of the tour, Susan shared many tales and lesser-known historical facts, including the names of celebrities who have dined in the State Dining Room, the fascinating story of Betty Boothroyd, the first (and to date, only) female Speaker of the house and the mysterious disappearance (and reappearance) of the king’s bed.
Speaker’s Study
The first room that we visited was the light-filled Speaker’s Study overlooking the River Thames, decorated with gold wallpaper and with a wonderfully ornate ceiling, painted with images of the Tudor rose and the Crowned Portcullis.
This is where the Speaker conducts his official business alongside his senior team, at a wooden desk flanked by green leather chairs.
Susan pointed out various items of interest, including a stuffed Puffin toy that was given to the current speaker, Sir Lindsay Hoyle, following an under-the-radar visit to Ukraine that was nicknamed “Operation Puffin”.
Crimson Drawing Room
The next room was the Crimson Drawing Room, so-called because of the red silk walls. The was once the drawing room for the family of the Speaker but is now reserved as the meet and greet room for state events.
When open for public tours, the room displays various items relating to the Speaker including the official state robes, which take 180 hours to make and are expected to last 100 years (fortunately they are adjusted for each speaker!), the court shoes and the full-bottomed white wig made from horsehair, which is no longer worn (Betty Boothroyd refused to wear it and no Speaker has worn it since).
As with the other rooms, the Crimson Drawing Room is lined with magnificent artworks showcasing Speakers through history and Susan once again shared fun anecdotes and stories, including the reason why the Speaker must know the name of all members of parliament.
Corner Drawing Room
The Corner Drawing Room is also known as the “room of firsts” and features portraits of modern day speakers. Hanging from the walls are portraits of John Bercow, the first Jewish speaker, Betty Boothroyd, the first female speaker and Michael Martin, the first Roman Catholic speaker.
Susan also explained the many coat of arms on display, saying that every speaker has both a portrait and a unique coat of arms designed for them.
A rugby ball is included in the coat of arms for current speaker Sir Lindsay Hoyle, for example, a nod to both his love of the sport and his time serving as president of the Rugby Football League.
The State Dining Room
Perhaps the most impressive room of the ones open to the general public is the State Dining Room.
This is where visiting dignitaries enjoy formal dinners (everyone from Benito Mussolini to President Macron) but also where royal celebrations have taken place: the Queen Mother had her 80th birthday lunch here and it’s where Charles and Diana hosted their engagement lunch.
The State Bedroom
Once upon a time, monarchs could stay overnight in Parliament, sleeping in the King’s Bed, before attending major events. Apparently Charles was offered the chance to sleep here before his coronation but politely declined.
This was said to be Betty Boothroyd’s favourite room and she used the intimate space to host small gatherings.
If your guide doesn’t share the tale of the missing King’s Bed when you are on your tour, then make sure to ask them.
How to visit the Speaker’s State Apartments
You have to be quick if you want to join the Speaker’s House tour because they are only available during the parliamentary recess over the Easter and summer holidays. Standard tours of the Houses of Parliament are available on Saturdays, even when Parliament is sitting.
Tours are available to book via the House of Parliament website but are only released closer to parliamentary recess dates. You can check the website here.
General tickets cost from £21 and profits from the tours go to the Speaker’s Art Fund, which supports arts and educational projects that aim to increase understanding of Parliamentary democracy in the UK.
